The Amazing Morocco - Elissa Moriane. Date of travel: Dec 2007
Morocco is the tantalising lower lip on the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea, a Muslim land so rich in mystique it seems to hover like a magic carpet somewhere between myth and reality. Tangier, Casablanca, Marrakech...just the names of these cities and towns should stir a hint of spice in the nostrils of the most geographically challenged. Many Moroccan destinations have been mythologized, and for good reason, but the more jaded traveller may well moan about the extinction of the `real' Morocco. Still others will extol the country's unique living history, its shimmering light, its art. Morocco is the ideal starting point for the traveller to Africa. An easy hop from Europe, it can be a friendly, hectic and stimulating place to get around in. Open-air markets throughout the country are piled high with rugs, woodwork, and jewellery.

I recommend Private tour guide Moha - Elissa Moriane. Date of travel: Dec 2007
We just returned from a phenomenal 10-day tour of Morocco. We found our guide Moha through a posting on a Website, and he subsequently sent me half-a-dozen references, one in my own hometown whom I met for coffee. After speak to Moha by email and phone and then meeting his reference in person, I felt quite comfortable booking him for our trip. He helped me plan our itinerary and booked hotels for us. Our itinerary was: Marrakesh - Ouarzazate - Tinghir - Merzouga - Midelt - Fez - Rabat - Casablanca. Moha picked us up from the airport with his driver Ali and a 4x4 Toyota Land Cruiser. He stayed with us the whole time as we sped across southern Morocco, stopping in tiny Berber villages along the way. He also arranged a 2-day camel trek into the desert, along with sandboarding - one of the most amazing experiences we have ever had. Moha speaks Berber, Classical Arabic, Moroccan Arabic, French, English and Spanish, and has a BA degree in Linguistics from the University of Meknes. He was a knowledgeable, friendly and very competent guide. We never felt uncomfortable with Moha or Ali, and in fact we became very good friends with both of them. If we ever took a local guide in one of the big cities (local guides are required by law in each city), Moha personally introduced us to him in advance. Ali himself owns the Toyota and always made sure it was clean, functioning and safely guarded. Moha even arranged a cell phone for us, and texted us while we were with local guides to make sure everything was OK. Due to Moha's knowledge and hard work, we felt like guests in Morocco, not tourists. He introduced us to numerous locals in a way that you are never able to in groups. We had tea with a Berber woman who lives in a cave and has 11 children. As Moha put it, She has very little money but a very big heart. This trip really put into perspective the diversity of life in our world, and we returned to Morocco amazed in every way; by the rich culture, geography, language, cuisine, and hospitality. We could never have had such an amazing experience had we not had the good fortune of finding Moha. I would recommend to contact Moha for any of your forthcoming trip to Moha. You can get hold of Moha through email or on the Internet: www.desertexplored.com Tour Operator: www.desertexplored.com

Morocco, the place to visit - John & Jay McCrum. Date of travel: May 2007
We spent two months travelling around Morocco and can not praise it and the people highly enough. The country has everything from great beaches to fantastic mountains, secret valleys with clear lakes to swim in and everything so green (in the north) to the Sahara, which we only visted briefly and were caught in a sand storm. The barganing for everything gets to you a first but after a while you learn to ask everyone what they paid, thereby getting an idea of what things should cost. I will certainly come again.

We Loved Tangier and the Local Tour guide - Alison & David J. Parker. Date of travel: Sep 2006
According to our local/private-guide appointed by the hotel reception, Tangier was a playground for adventure seekers and the rich and famous, attracting all those seeking a tax haven or a mystic destination; from authors to artists, and spies to aristocrats. Regular visitors included the likes of Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams, and Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. When Spain relinquished Tangier back to Morocco in 1960 its duty-free status went with it, and the city lost a great deal of its flair. Our wonderful guide (Nezha) showed us the Caves of Hercules and Tangier’s 17th century fortified residential quarter, or Kasbah, is a place of arcades, winding alleys and hidden terraces, where it is possible to wander among the wealthy homes and sometimes manage a peep behind the unprepossessing facades, enjoying views of the medina and the bay. The Kasbah mosque features an interesting octagonal minaret, and stands in the mechovar (parade ground). We were very welcomed at the Sultan’s Gardens in the Rue Riad Sultan to the north of the mechovar, where they can watch local craftsmen at work and sit awhile on the terrace of the Moorish café Le Detroit. On a clear day it is possible to see the Spanish city of Tarifa about 18 miles (30km) away. Our Personal guide Nezha, is a registered Private-tour guide in Morocco. Thanks to her efforts, our visit in Tangier was a total success. Nezha old Morocco come alive and she guided us through the energy and dynamism of today’s Morocco. She offered new insights on sites I thought that I already knew, she took us to places that I had been waiting years to see, and she introduced us to spots that I didn't even know existed. Nezha’s knowledge is vast and her generosity in sharing it is unlimited, she gave us lectures on Moroccan history, Politics, Culture, and current events delivered in colloquial English, peppered with incisive witticisms and informed by his acumen. Her background is impressive. I hope to be lucky enough to have her as a guide in the future and I recommend her wholeheartedly to any visitor to Morocco. Nezha Can Be found at Email: nezhatour@gmail.com

Morocco trip report. - Cris. Date of travel: Mar 2006
A short flight from London and I was in Casablanca, the joining point for the trip. I had arrived a few days before the trip giving me some spare time to enjoy the city. I spent my time exploring and getting totally lost on the Moroccan trains, which was not helped by the fact that my French vocabulary stretches as far as "bonjour" and "merci" -- I knew I should have paid more attention at school! After meeting the group for breakfast, we set off for the impressive Hasan the 2nd Mosque before the short train journey to Rabat and the start of my Moroccan Adventure. Once in Rabat we set off on a city walking tour, taking in the highlights and fascinating history of the city. The guide was very informative and it was here we would have are first experience of the Moroccan Medina and the hustle and bustle of the evening traders. Next we headed for Fez stopping at a weekly market (en route) where locals will travel by donkey to buy and sell goods for the week. We also stoped at the ruined Roman city of Volubilis, where we had a guided tour of the ancient site. The city was damaged by a major earthquake but still is an impressive site. In Fez we had a full day touring this imperial city, most of which was spent in its huge Medina -- a fascinating cultural experience for anyone, especially the famous tanneries (not for the faint hearted -- it stinks). The medina of Fez has to be the world's biggest maze with street sellers, blacksmiths and carpenters around every corner (the list is endless). After some time in the cities it was time to head south and over the Mid-Atlas Mountains. This is a full day's drive of stunning scenery, with flowing hills dotted with random Kasbahs. We finally arrived, covered in dust and sand at Erfoud, our gateway to the dunes of the Sahara. The following day we had some free time to explore the local markets before heading off to Erg Chebbi. That evening we made a caravan of the 4 legged kind plus Omar at(www.cameltrekking.com), highly recommended, and set off into the dunes to watch the sunset. Camel riding, for those who have never done it, is very enjoyable and really good fun. It just all adds to the experience of being in the Sahara. That night we opted to sleep under the stars and with a clear sky and no light pollution you could spend all night gasping at the beautiful sky. The next morning we awoke to rain and although we missed out on the sunrise not many people can claim to being rained on in the Sahara! Another long days drive took us to Todra Gorge. This stunning gorge with brilliant red cliffs 250 metres high was the highlight of my trip. Here we spent the day walking in the gorge and just taking in the brilliant scenery this place has to offer. For those who want to, there is the option to do some rock climbing here. We travelled towards the High Atlas mountain stopping en route at the famous Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou used in the film set of Gladiator. On arrival at Imlil, a small village in the High Atlas Mountains, we transfered to our home for the next few days. Here we stayed with a traditional Berber family and experienced the lifestyle they live. A full days trek followed in this beautiful region, and led us to a stunning waterfall and an amazing view over the village. The walk was most enjoyable. There is also the opportunity to make the ascent to North Africa's highest mountain, Mt. Toubkal, at 4167 meters -- for those willing and able. The following day we had just a short drive to Marrakech here we had a horse drawn carriage ride around the city taking in the many historic buildings and monuments, complete with a guide advising us of the history and answering any of our questions. In the evening Djemaa-el-fna is a must. The square comes alive at night with snake charmers, acrobats musicians and more. Another huge attraction of the square has to be the food stalls, just choose a stall and pull up a seat to sample a mouthwatering sheeps head. Don't worry as well as the unusual, there are the usual brilliant Moroccan dishes and you can also get many European favourites at great value. Overall this trip has a great mixture of adventure and culture combined with the stunning scenery Morocco has to offer -- a truly wonderful experience.

Morocco trip report.(2) - Cris. Date of travel: Mar 2006
The remainder of our stay was pure delight. During the day we talked to Omar about life in Morocco and his travels in Desert. At night, we played drumms together. We learned how to cook Moroccan dishes under the tutelage of omar's mother. The sand dunes were no more than 300 meters from the house, and we ventured up a 100 meter high dune each day. We would have been content to stay an entire month. On our final morning, Omar drove us to Erfoud, 50km north of Merzouga, where the bus for Fes.

michelle cope. Date of travel: Sep 2005
I visited both Agadir and Marrakech recently and they couldn't of been more different. There is still quite a bit of bulding work going on around Agadir, but its a developing resort so you've got to expect it. It should'nt distract you though from the lovely scenery from the kasbah and the beaches that go on for miles. I did'nt expect to like Marrakech but i really enjoyed it, even more than Agadir! There's a lot more to see and do here. Try Chez Ali Fantasia a good night out with great food, the souks and the djemma el fna square i've never seen so many people in one place at a time! If you see men with funny hats on with cups around their neck don't worry their only selling water but don't buy any stick to bottled water or you will have "moroccan belly" as they call it! have a look at the temperatures before you go if you cant take the heat, in september it was around 90 degrees in agadir and well over 100 degress in marrakech. Food is great out there they do try and put lamb in everything but if trying local food isn't your thing there are still mc donalds and kfc's. I would definatley recommend a twin centre but be prepared for the 4hr transfer between Agadir and Marrakech, but it's worth it in the end!. Tour Operator: panorama

Natalie. Date of travel: Aug 2004
Travelling as single female, Morocco was not as hard as expected but requires a thick skin- no feminist views here.. Be aware of the novelty. Although Morocco is quite westernised, for own benefit I recommend to cover up. Does not stop attention but sure helps. Marrakesh is a must even for a few days- to experience the main square at night is amazing.. Hotel Ali although not the cleanest but I highly recommended- helpful staff when needed, right near the square and the souqs, and can book you a sahara tour. A bit more expensive but once travelled you will appreciate. To recover from the extremes of Marrakesh, catch the bus to Essaouaira- coastal town.. Big difference in people. Be prepared to be constantly annoyed by locals- unfortunately it's their nature. Learn to laugh at it and you'll enjoy.. Tour Operator: N/A

Hafeezur Rahman Malik. Date of travel: Jun 2004
MOROCCO “Forty days in Morocco!!! Are you mad?â€? screamed my neighbor, Riaz. His perplexity was natural. English is rarely spoken in Morocco and the language barrier may create problems. Being determined, I boarded Emirate Airlines Boeing 777 on June 26, 04 for Casablanca. There were nearly 300 passengers. All applauded when the airplane made a smooth landing. I joined them and appreciated a good custom. Immigration formalities were brief and soon I found myself on a waiting train right in the terminal area. In about 30 minutes, the train reached the city. I had a reservation for a hotel which was located next door. In a moment, I was at the reception of Ibis Moussafir with a printout of my Internet booking. Never before finding a place to straighten my back was so safe and so convenient. Casablanca After a good night's sleep, I was ready to explore the city. To start, I went to a nearby bank to exchange traveler’s cheques. It was difficult to explain what I was looking for. At last, I came across a bank employee who knew a little English. He asked me to go the bank’s main branch. On my request, he scribbled on a piece of paper the bank address in Arabic. This paper served as a gate pass and I was directed from one block to another till I reached there in two hours. (The local currency is dirham and current rate was 8.8 dirham to US$.) A long walk to the bank provided me an opportunity to have a look at the City Centre. It was like any European downtown. People were wearing smart business suits, designer dresses and sunglasses. Rare to be seen was the national dress, jellaba: a loose-fitting, hooded robe with full sleeves. The area was fairly impressive with big, lively, tree-lined boulevards and white buildings. I was looking for Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman around every corner because of the classic film “Casablancaâ€?. There were none except in “Bar Casablancaâ€? (Hyatt Regency Ph + 212 2243 1234) which recaptured the ambience of the fabled “Rick's Barâ€? echoing with the immortal words, “Play it again, Sam.â€? Next day, I went to see the world renowned Hassan II Mosque. Built on the edge of the ocean, the Mosque rose like some kind of a divine ship. Walking up to the mosque, I felt more like I was going to a large sports stadium with signs directing traffic to various underground car parks. Three times the size of London's St. Paul's Cathedral, it boasts a 200 meters high minaret. The prayer hall can accommodate 25,000 of the faithful and the esplanade 80,000 more. Its retractable roof can, in three minutes, transforms the prayer hall into a magnificent patio. The esplanade was very peaceful, away from the traffic, the ocean waves crashing against the rocks and families strolling around. Meknes Though I was on a pleasure trip, I had planned it well. It was time to move. For traveling within Morocco, a number of options were available. Apart from comfortable and fast trains, the bus network was dense and efficient. Running alongside the bus services were shared taxis linking one town to another. One can leapfrog and cover the entire country. I boarded a train for a comfortable ride. Meknes was about 230 kms away and the train reached there in about three hours. The approach to Meknes was a delight with lush green olive and citrus groves covering the surrounding hills. All old Moroccan cities like Meknes have an ancient market called 'medina'. Here daily life follows a centuries-old pattern. Goods are haggled for in tiny shops and stalls, often over a glass of hot mint tea. To wander through these streets is to be drawn into a wonderful feast for the senses. Small shops sell henna and other cosmetics. The merchant unfolds a piece of blue cloth with reverence. The pleasure becomes all the more intense when the object of the visit is the choice of a ring, a sword stick, a carpet, a woven basket or sweet smelling spices. Fez After staying for two days at Meknes, I took a train bound for Fez, only 60 kms away. There were three towns in Fez. First, Fez-l-Bali, an old medina, a labyrinth of sloping and winding alleys. Second, Fez al Jedid, a modern city with broad avenues, and in particular the Avenue Hassan II, distinguished by the patterns of light playing through the leaves overhead onto the ornamental pools beneath. Third, Ville Nouvelle, a French-built city. Here the buildings were much more like those in Marseilles or Nice, with walled courtyards containing lovely gardens. The place was blessed with great spots for wood-fired oven pizzas and decent pasta dishes. I remained there for four days and had a good view of the city from several surrounding hills at different times. In a broad day-light, I got an impression of an ocean of flat roofs punctuated by soaring minarets with a gentle succession of terraces following both sides of the valley. At dawn, the light climbed up the flanks of the hills and, at dusk, the sun flooded the cascades of roofs and cupolas with ochre-red light. Fez is a holy city, a spiritual and cultural capital of Morocco. This is where, as in Florence or Athens, one can find the whole treasure at one spot. This is a city of endless mosques. Mighty doors of the Andalusia Mosque invite the faithful to prayer. Easily identified by its green and white minarets, the El Sahri Medersa (school) seems to be literally overflowing with luxurious decoration. The voice of enchanting children drifts down from the open windows. Rif Mountain While moving in Fez, I met Mike, an American tourist who had been in Morocco many times in the past. I joined him and we went to a town called Ketema about 200 km away in the Rif mountain. The approach was very scenic and fascinating, the valley sides being terraced as far as the eyes can see with kif (hashish) growth, sanobar firs and cedar forests. It was a land reminiscent of Southern Spain, only seventy miles away across the Straits of Gibraltar. We left the taxi at Ketema and walked for 2 km to meet one of Mike's friends, Elbrazi. He greeted Mike by seven quick kisses on both the cheeks and led us inside his house. A boy came in with a pitcher of hot water in his right hand and a basin in the left hand to start the hand washing ceremony. Mint tea was next. It was followed by Moroccan traditional dish, tajine with couscous ( semolina topped with meat, vegetables and species, steamed in an earthen pot and served sizzling.) The dinner ended with sweet cinnamon-flavoured pastries drenched in nuts and honey. Afterwards, Elbrazi and Mike had a fiesta smoking kif marijuana. For the next two days, eating & smoking rituals were repeated three times a day until Mike vomited right on the table and realized it was time to move. Our next destination was Chaouen, a town 5,000 feet above sea level in the Rif Mountain. It was famed for whitewashed houses, narrow blue-painted lanes, blue doors, little iron-cast balconies, and its very Spanish-like plaza. It was a pretty laid-back place. Many hippies with long hair and pale complexion were smoking hash openly in the cafes and balconies of the motels. Since I avoided smoked-filled places, I stayed separately in a nice hotel on the outskirts of the town. Next morning, I tried to find Mike but he had mysteriously disappeared. Once again, I was on my own to continue with my travel plan. Marrakesh From Chaouen, I boarded a night-bus to reach Marrakesh about km 700 away. I had reservation for a very friendly place, Hotel Ali (Rue Moulay Ismail, Phone: 044/44-49-79) and remained there for four days paying only $ 20 / day for a clean air-conditioned room with half-board and free email facilities. A buffet-style dinner was served on the rooftop. I had dinner and, the same time, enjoyed the panoramic views of the city. The hotel was quite near to Jemaa el Fna, the square famous for its nighttime food stalls and traditional entertainment. With the approach of dusk, one could see people making their way to the hot food stalls. One after another, acetylene flames sprang into life. It was a starry night, the moon came out to play the role it was designed for; to be the most magical of the thousand and one lanterns in the Jemaa el Fna Square. Next day, I was awakened by the prayer-call from the 70 metre high minaret of Koutoubia, the spiritual beacon of Marrakesh. It was good time to see sunrise and also have a long walk. I had a city map depicting worth-seeing places. I only had to approach a passerby and put my forefinger on a particular spot. In a long-winded Arabic language, one would explain to me how to reach there and then point out in a particular direction. I only cared for the direction and move on till I was non-plus on the next crossing. I spent one full day in locating the Majorelle Garden, only 7 km away from Ali Hotel. It had abundance of giant bamboo, yucca, papyrus, palm, cypress and amazing cacti with natural colours that contrasted vividly with bright blue façade of the villa. It was a place of rare individual expression and mystical force. On my last day, I visited Menara. Set slightly out of town, Menara offered a pleasant escape from busy Marrakech. It had a rectangular pool that looked stunningly attractive with the towering Atlas Mountains in the background. A walk around the pool must be good for love as blushing couples were walking without holding hands, and most certainly without kissing. I returned by the evening. It was delightful to feel the gentle caress of the light breeze on my cheeks. Gorge Dades On my way to Gorge Dades, about 294 km away from Marrakesh, I stayed for one day at Ourazazat (were-za-zat). There was a studio where Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars and Kundan, an India film, were partially shot. A little away was Aït Benhaddou, a village made up of several small fortresses. I took a bus from Ourazazat to Boumalne where grand taxis were available for the gorge, about 35 miles away. I joined one taxi which ran on a serpentine road passing by picturesque villages in the Dades Valley. The taxi ascended on the hilly road gaining height as the valley got narrower and narrower. Finally, it squeezed to a gorge barely 6-meter wide where river and the road had to be separated by a small wall. Once the taxi passed the gorge, the area become quite flat. I asked the driver to drop me at hotel Berber de la Montangne that was hardly 30 meters beyond the 310-meter high rocks. It was a nice place to relax and was surprisingly inexpensive: just $ 20 with sumptuous breakfast and dinner. I stayed for two days enjoying the beauty of the gorge and rocks changing colours with movement of the sun. Merzouga After Dades, I returned to main road and took a bus to reach Rissani, about 387 km away in the Southeast. Merzouga was still 35 km away and I decided to take a break. While I was looking for a hotel, I ran into a guy named Abdul who was a resident of Merzouga. He convinced me to accompany him. I shelved my plan and went with him. The village of Merzouga lied beside the brown sand dunes. I felt a sense of timelessness in the still and silent desert unchanged since ages. In the evening, Abdul took me to a tour of the village. We watched traditional folkloric dance and listened to Berber drum music and songs. We had dinner at a roadside café: a bowl of soup and a loaf of bread, too hot to hold, as it was straight from the oven. At night, I slept in a traditional Berber tent made of camel hair. On the floor, there were hand-woven rugs, cotton pillows & cushions. It was a wonderful setting evoking images of the Arabian Nights. Next day was reserved for a night safari. In the evening Abdul brought a camel. He ordered the camel to sit-down. I jumped on its saddle. Without warning, I lurched forward toward the ground, then rose several feet into the air as my camel stood up and started walking. Initially, I felt awkward but soon adjusted to the slow rhythm. After about 3 hours, we arrived at a camp-site in the middle of towering sand dunes about 120-meter high. We slept on sand in the open sky beneath the flickering stars in the clear desert sky and returned in the early morning. Imilchil From Merzouga, I dashed to Tinerhir, a picturesque oasis town with a lovely place to stay, Hotel Al Houda. While checking-in, the receptionist said, “You are a little early. If it were mid-September, there is no place on the earth like Imilchil.â€? I had heard the name before. It was a marriage-market where the women do the choosing. The name "Imilchil" got engraved in my mind. But it was 110 km away, up in the high mountain with no public transport. I enquired around and found a van, with 21 passengers, going to the last village, Ait Hani, about 45 km away. I talked with the driver and he agreed to take me solo to Imilchil for $75 after dropping off passengers at their destinations. On the way, the van passed by Todra, a steep, narrow gorge with a swift river running through it. Two cliff walls, 300-meters high, rose out of rocky river bed just 10-meters apart. This was a gateway to High Atlas Mountain and the road to Imilchil was constantly rising, occasionally giving a glimpse of far-away sand dunes of Sahara. About 10 km before Imilchil town, the van passed by a deserted village which only becomes alive at the time of the Marriage Festival. I envisioned aspiring young ladies with purple scarves approaching me with sweet voices like, "You have captured my liverâ€?. (In Berber culture it's the liver, not the heart which is considered to be the location of true love.) The Imilchil Town was pleasantly cool being at an altitude of 2,600 meters. There were few hotels. I got a room with clean woolen blankets for only $ 7. A free breakfast in the morning was a windfall. The town itself consisted of window-less red-mud houses matching with colour of the surrounding hills. I wish I could stay until Mid-September to try my luck in the marriage market but it was simply not possible. I left with a heavy heart next morning for Beni Melal. Cascades Ouzoud Sharing a taxi with a Belgium couple, I reached Ouzoud in about three hours. I stayed in a hotel near enough to hear the pleasant sound of falling water. After some rest, I went to the source hardly 50 meters away. It presented a spectacular view of water falling from a height of 100 meters. The falls were flanked by red-rock cliffs and bright green shrubs. Reaching the bottom had been made easy by staircases and paths. Down below, the falling torrent had formed a pool where one could swim or row a little boat. I sat at the edge of water sipping tea and watching desert monkeys begging for handouts. The view from the bottom was awesome. As water struck protruding rocks, spray bounced upwards creating a big rain-bow. Essaouira From Ouzoud, I continued downward to reach Essaouira, about 470 km away. Essaouira was a beautiful port known for strong winds. It had a fortified harbour with fishing nets laid out on the quayside, boats unloading their catches and stalls serving seafood sizzling on grills. The strong winds blowing from the Atlantic Ocean had made it a surfers' paradise. I stayed at a hotel near the sea. One fine morning, I went out and was surprised to find out that I was all alone except some seagulls and cats. I watched the strong waves beating the fortress walls and fishing boats returning with a trail of scavenging birds. It was a wonderful sight indeed. Back to Casablanca On 40th day, when it was 4th August 04, I returned to Casablanca covering about 3,500 miles and blowing away around $ 2,000. As my flight was next day, I covered one left-over item in my program. It was a hammam, a public bath. During my previous stay in the same city, I had marked one, Hammam Ziani, and went straight for it. For a small amount ($ 5), I was soaped, scrubbed, messaged and rinsed by an attendant. I felt fresh when the sand of the desert and dirt of the towns were washed away but the memories left in tact. Hafeez ur Rahman Malik hafeezr@bigfoot.com Tour Operator: self - guided

Rob Parker. Date of travel: Mar 2004
One of the highlights of my trip was trekking in the High Atlas Mountains. From Imlil (a mountain village about an hour from Marrakech) we did a 7-day trip around the Toubkal Circuit. We saw hardly any other trekkers and it was fantastic to experience village life and hospitality in the mountains. We passed some incredible scenery, a glacial lake, some high passes and many shepherds with their agile goats and sheep. Really worthwhile. Most people just do the 2-day Jebel Toubkal ascent to bag the highest peak in northern Africa (13,665ft), but this is a horribly overrun route with overweight, unfit wannabe hikers along with their donkey trains. Much better to get away from it all and really see the mountains! Tour Operator: self organised

C.C. Drummond. Date of travel: Mar 2004
We had limited time and had spent it mostly in Spain. I wanted to go to Morroco and with my time constraints picked Tangier. I initally was a little reserved about going there because I had heard negative things said but, I am not one to listen to reviews I'd rather form my own opinion. I was travelling with my 9 year old son,my sister and her husband as well as their 22 year old son who at the time was attending the university in Madrid. The ferry ride over was amazing. It was so clean and the staff were very friendly. My son was thrilled when we saw the mountains in the distance that was the shoreline of Africa. When we came off the boat we were greeted with a few registered tour guides. We picked one after speaking w/a few and our guide was named Jacob. It turned out that he was a history teacher and did this for extra income. He spoke something like 8 languages and was from the beginning a walking text book regarding where and what we were seeing. The markets were amazing and while we shopped he told us he would come back within an hour and let us do our thing inside this great market. They had a show for us regarding the beautiful handmade rugs and the hospitality was overwhelming. We had the most wonderful mint tea and after that they allowed us to go to the roof and take pictures of the town and sea. This was off season and we were the only ones in the group. Our guide then took us to a few jewerly shops were I might add my sister and I spent the most. My son purchased a djelaba and after that he looked like a morrocan. At one store my son elected to sit out on the street curb w/some morrocan children and play ball. My son is half african american and his skin color is a beautiful brown which he found it cool that everyone else had similar color to his. The kids were so friendly and thought he was morrocan at first until he spoke to them. He took many pictures and still to this day he speaks of our visit there as if it was yesterday. The shop owners where pleasant not pushy which irates me in the states. Make sure you bargin.bargin , bargin. One store we went to my nephew bargined for almost an hour. They took us to an upstairs room where we showed them what it was we had in our wicker baskets and then the bargining begins. I would have given in after about 10 mins but my nephew held on at one point we all got up and left to go downstairs, the gentleman called my nephew back and we let the men stay upstairs and my sister and I went back down where the merchindise was. Finally, they resolved the price we paid and all of us were very happy. Of course, we were starved by the evening and Jacob took us to a great restaurant. We were the only ones in there and we were treated to a three piece musical trio. The music was amazing and the food was excellent. I could not get enough of the wonderful sights before my eyes. For one day I had one of my greatest travel experiences. I will always remember our kind guide Jacob and the exciting streets of Tangier. I never felt nervous or at threat from anything. Of course, I did the obvious. I did not carry a handbag my passport was carried under my clothes, it was chilly and I was always covered. I will be re-visiting Morocco in the future and hope the cities I travel to will be as positive as this day was in Tangier.

Barbara Nicholson. Date of travel: Jan 2004
Agadir, Take a white taxi and get the driver to show you Agadir. Take a trip to the green valley, Grand Souk and see life. Tour Operator: Thomson